Routes
Daily stages on map
On Friday, June 4, 2004 we drove to Kolari and stayed the night.
Kilpisjärvi – Kuohkimajärvi
On Saturday, June 5, 2004 we set off a little after 7 a.m., reached Kilpisjärvi at 10:20. Everything was closed, the lake was frozen, the air cold, cloudy with some sun, a bit of wind. At the roadside parking area at the start of the Malla trail we changed clothes. The car was taken to the customs parking area and we walked back along the road, then continued along the trail into Malla Park. The trail began to climb immediately through mountain birch forest. Behind a rock in the wind shelter we took a break. More ascent, good trail, reaching the highest point of the route. There we looked at an old bunker and took photos, then continued to Kitsiputous and photographed again.
After that some rocky terrain, then easy heathland. We met two walkers who had stayed the night at Kuohkimajärvi hut and were now returning to Kilpisjärvi. After the heath and a small stream crossing, we descended into birch forest and followed the Norwegian border to Kuohkimajärvi hut. At the hut we lit the stove, took off the polo shirt to dry, put on a base‑layer shirt. We rested and ate. Heavy rain began and the wind strengthened, so we decided to stay in the hut for the night.
A couple of walkers visited the border cairn and the hut porch, then returned to Kilpisjärvi. We ate Reiter 125 g, chocolate and muesli, coffee. From the hut window and occasionally outside we looked toward Paras, with fairly good visibility. The wind was strong, rain continued through the evening. We read the hut guestbook. Went to sleep fairly early, mattress on the bunk.
Kuohkimajärvi – Pältsastuga
On Sunday, June 6, 2004 we woke a little after 5 a.m. Outside it was cloudy with occasional sunshine, no rain, still windy from the northwest. Breakfast: Reiter and coffee, cleaning the hut.
We started walking after 7 a.m. up toward the Tuipali plateau. First ascent through birch forest, then rocky heath. At around 700 meters there was already so much snow that it could not be avoided; the snow sank above the ankle, at times to the knee. Walking slowed down. Fresh snow had fallen during the night and still lay on the ground. Strong northwest/north wind, cloudy, occasional sun through gaps in the clouds, good visibility, small snowflakes carried by the wind. Breaks behind rocks for shelter, chocolate bar. Several kilometers of walking in snow. Then descent; on the south‑facing slope no snow. In the valley bottom we crossed the river via a bridge and climbed over a ridge, then descended again. In the valley we took a muesli break behind a rock. Another ascent to a ridge; wind now strong, cold, snow falling more heavily. From the ridge good views toward Pältsa and the Pältsa valley. Break behind a rock, photography. Descending, just above the tree line we saw four wolverines running away.
Pältsa hut was empty. In the old hut one room was open. We decided to stay there for the night because of the strong wind, snowfall and cold. The hut warmed slowly but eventually became warm. No gas equipment; water was heated on the stove. We ate Reiter and drank coffee. Early evening the wind eased, snowfall stopped and the sun came out. We went to see the Pältsajohka waterfall, took photos, returned to the hut, photographed more, and looked from the window toward Pältsa, Juoksavatnjunni and Måskogaise, all clearly visible.
Juoksavatnjunni was completely snow‑covered from about 700 meters upward, and the gully we had planned to ascend was likely filled with meters of snow. We decided not to climb it and instead follow Pältsavaggi the next day. In the evening the wind strengthened again and snow returned. Coffee and cookies. Slept fairly early; the hut was warm enough, mattress on the bed.
Pältsastuga – Near Gappohyttan
On Monday, June 7, 2004 we woke around 8 a.m., having slept well and long. Outside windy but no snowfall, sun shining through clouds. Reiter + coffee, cleaning the hut, set off around 10. We gradually ascended through gravel ridges and small bogs to heathland, followed Pältsavaggi. At first little snow, walking on the west side of Pältsajohka. Where the canyon became shallower, we crossed to the east side because there was less snow on the slope. Meal break in shelter of a bank, sun shining: Reiter 125 g + muesli. Continued gradually climbing the valley slope, steep in places, snow increasing, sun shining, wind from the north.
During the ascent fine views west toward the mountain slopes. We reached the saddle at 1062 m; wind strengthened, snow carried by the wind. On the far side cloudy. Photography. Then descent along a snowy slope to the riverbank, easy river crossing on snow, entering Norway, walking toward Gappohyttan with tailwind and no snowfall. We continued to the level of Gappohyttan, about 200 meters downhill from the hut, and pitched the tent by a stream. The stream bed still had a lot of snow. As soon as the tent was up, snow began again with the wind. Outside temperature at ground level +2°C, inside tent +12°C, soon warming to +18°C. Reiter, coffee, cookies, then sleep. During the night it became cold enough that the tent interior cooled to 7°C.
Near Gappohytta – Kilpisjärvi
On Tuesday, June 8, 2004 we woke fairly early, ate (Reiter, coffee), dressed, pre‑packed backpacks, dried the tent, took it down, packed fully, and set off. Wind from the northwest with snow carried by it. We walked toward the Three‑Country Cairn, covering 10 km without stopping. First break only when Lake Goldajärvi was visible below. We descended, took a break in the birch forest and ate chocolate bars, then continued along the lakeshore to the cairn and Kuohkimajärvi hut. At the cairn we met three Estonian walkers.
At the hut we lit the stove, dried clothes, ate (Reiter, coffee, cookies), rested, then continued toward Kilpisjärvi, arriving around 9 p.m. Retrieved the car from customs, changed clothes, and drove to Kolari. Total distance walked: 68.8 km.