Routes
Daily stages on map
Kvikkjokk – Tarra River Bridge
On Thursday, July 26, 2007 we woke at 07:30. Breakfast was coffee, pastries and a banana, eaten in the car. We broke camp and drove to Kvikkjokk, left the car in the parking area next to the mountain station, walked down to the boat dock, and waited 1.5 hours in light rain.
The boatman arrived at 10:30 and took us 3.7 km by boat to the Padjelanta trail (100 SEK/person), where the hike began. Shortly after starting it began to rain, and it continued all the way to Njunjes hut. The trail was easy, at first through pine and spruce forest, with plenty of boardwalks and bridges. Because of the rain we wore full rain gear and mosquito head nets. After Bäcken cabin (8 km) we took a break by the bridge and ate a chocolate bar. At Njunjesstugan (11 km) we had another break with cookies and Gatorade. The rain stopped, conifers ended, and the trail continued through birch forest and tall grass. At Tarrekaisestugan (17 km) we took another break and ate a chocolate bar; the sun was shining.
We continued, and at the trail junction (20 km) turned toward Vaimokstugan. We camped by the river next to the bridge over the Tarra River. Dinner was Reiter “Hunter’s Stew” 250 g. Slept moderately well. The rain and brush were unpleasant, but the evening cleared and the worst bushy sections were behind us. Boat ride 3.7 km, walking 23.0 km.
Tarra River Bridge – Vaimokvagge
On Friday, July 27, 2007 we woke at 08:30. Sunny, no wind. Breakfast: Reiter Pasta Carbonara 250 g, coffee and cookies. We aired sleeping bags and dried the tent.
We set off at 11:00. First gentle ascent through birch forest, then steeper to the treeline and above. Sweat poured. Then easy walking along the valley on fell heath, plenty of boardwalks, hardly any rocks or bogs — very easy terrain. To the left, Staika mountain (1794 m) was often visible. We gradually reached Kurajauren shelter (9 km), where we took a break indoors: chocolate bar, muesli and fruit soup, coffee and cookies. We continued toward Vaimokstugan. Along Lake Vaimok there were some rocky sections. Weather was dry, with a brisk tailwind. We reached the hut (18.5 km) at 19:05, took photos, hopped across the stream next to the hut, took a break and ate chocolate. Rain began, so we changed clothing.
We continued, first a steep ascent onto Vaimokbakten, then camped about one kilometer further along the trail at 21:21. Dinner: Reiter Hunter’s Stew 250 g. A long day but pleasant — no brush, fine scenery, and a nice shelter. 20.2 km.
Vaimokvagge – Lairovagge
On Saturday, July 28, 2007 we woke at 08:38. Cloudy but dry, with a pleasant breeze. Breakfast: Reiter Pasta Carbonara 250 g, coffee and cookies. We began by walking through beautiful watershed highlands without major climbs, often above 900 m. Then a gentle descent, crossing a three‑branch stream by hopping on rocks. Break + chocolate bar. Continued descending; the sun began to shine hot. After the descent we crossed a gravel plain to the next river crossing, which was tricky on rocks — wading shoes would have made it easy. We continued to Pieskehaurestugan (15 km), talked with the hut warden, took a break outside, ate muesli and fruit soup, coffee and cookies.
We continued northwest toward Lairovagge. Soon we crossed two fast rivers via bridges. Heavy rain began, so we changed clothing. In the rain we walked another 3 km along the west side of Lairovagge and camped by a stream at just under 900 m at 20:50. The rain stopped. Dinner: Reiter Hunter’s Stew 250 g and beer sausage. Boots and socks were soaked from rain and wet vegetation. The terrain was excellent for hiking and the route easy. 24.6 km.
Lairovagge – Sulitjelma
On Sunday, July 29, 2007 we woke at 08:51. Windy with light rain, occasional sun allowing sleeping bags to dry. Breakfast: Reiter Beef Stroganoff 250 g, coffee and cookies. We walked along the valley toward the national border. Weather cloudy but pleasant. The nearby glacier (Salajiegna) was somewhat visible. There was plenty of snow and water on the slopes, and we often crossed streams flowing over slippery rock. The snow was firm and made walking easier. The border cairn was visible down in the valley. When the valley ended and Lake Lomijärvi came into view, we took a break + chocolate bar. At the lake shore we searched for the route, eventually reaching a larger river and spotting a bridge high on the slope. We climbed to it and found the trail. The route continued along the lake, with more ups and downs and stream crossings. In one stream our boots got wet again — a difficult crossing that would have been easy with wading shoes. While considering drying our boots, heavy rain began again. Rain gear on, no drying possible. The rain stopped only after passing the lake. Break + chocolate bar at Lomihytta (locked).
We crossed the nearby fast river via a bridge and continued to the road, walking about 4 km to Ny‑Sulitjelma hut. We stayed in a 2‑bed room (150 NOK/person). Dinner: Reiter Hunter’s Stew 250 g + Gatorade + coffee + cookies. We washed (running warm water) and dried gear in the drying cabinet. The day’s terrain was initially excellent — in better weather it would have been spectacular — then meadow and rocky lakeshore, and finally gravel road. 16.2 km.
Sulitjelma – Staddajåhka Bridge
On Monday, July 30, 2007 we woke at 08:00. Breakfast: Reiter Pasta Bolognese 250 g + coffee + cookies. Cleaned the room.
We walked 2 km up the road, then into the mountains. Beautiful scenery, lots of snow on the fells, and one large snowfield on the trail. After 2.5 km we waded a river using wading shoes. Weather cloudy but dry, light wind. Soon a steeper ascent, then snowy landscapes descending toward Sorjushytta. The final section required careful traversing of a steep snow slope. At the hut we took a break: muesli + fruit soup + coffee + chocolate bar. We continued along the lake until reaching a larger river. A bridge existed about 1 km upstream, but it was in poor condition and only part of the group dared to use it. Near the lake the river widened and was easily fordable. We continued along sometimes wet and boggy lakeshore to Sårjåsjaurestugan, arriving at 21:05.
We took photos and ate a chocolate bar, then continued another 5 km to the Staddajåhka bridge. We camped on the west bank above the bridge at 22:40. Dinner: Reiter pasta with vegetables in cream sauce. 27.4 km. We reflected on food intake: by the time we had walked 27 km, we had eaten about 500 g of dry food. Total dry food for the day was 625 g. We drank very little water. The day offered magnificent scenery: mountains, snow, streams, lakes.
Staddajåhka Bridge – Tuottar
On Tuesday, July 31, 2007 we woke at 08:00. Sunny, no clouds, no wind. Breakfast: Reiter Hunter’s Stew 250 g, coffee and cookies. We walked past Staddajåkkastugan through easy rolling terrain, crossed a bridge, then from a rocky knoll saw Staloluokta and Lake Virihaure.
At the trail junction (11 km) we continued toward Tuottarstugan. After 2 km we took a break: muesli + fruit soup + chocolate bar. The sun disappeared and clouds increased. We continued gradually upward, some willow thickets, crossed a bridge, ascended to about 900 m, easy trail. Another break + chocolate bar. At Tuottarstugan we took photos and considered options. Rain began, so we continued another kilometer and camped by the trail at 20:40. Dinner: Reiter chicken risotto 250 g + beer sausage + Gatorade. 29.2 km of easy fell terrain in mostly good weather. During the night strong westerly wind and heavy rain shook the tent; little sleep.
Tuottar – Såmmarlappa
On Wednesday, August 1, 2007 we woke early in strong wind and heavy rain. The tent’s windward stakes had come loose, causing the flysheet to press against the inner tent and wet the sleeping bag. Breakfast: Reiter Pasta Carbonara 250 g, coffee and cookies. We packed inside the tent, then took down the flysheet with cold hands. We walked in rain with tailwind, which helped. Easy high terrain but wet and foggy. Break + chocolate bar. Then descent to Tarraluoppalstugan (8 km). We continued past the hut, soon hopping across a stream on rocks — boots still dry at this point. After a few kilometers: break, muesli + fruit soup. We continued through wet Tarradalen. Vegetation increased and was wet; boots and socks became soaked. The brush was unpleasant.
We reached Såmmarlappastugan; the rain stopped just before arrival. We arrived after 18:00. Overnight stay 340 SEK/person. We dried sleeping bags, socks and boots by the stove. Bought instant coffee (45 SEK). Dinner: Reiter Beef Stroganoff + coffee + cookies + chocolate bar. 23.3 km in overly wet and foggy weather.
Såmmarlappa – Boat Dock
On Thursday, August 2, 2007 we woke at 09:00. Breakfast: Reiter pasta with vegetables in cream sauce, coffee and cookies. The morning was sunny, but it soon became cloudy. We set off before noon, walking through brush along the trail. Rain began. After a while we took a break + chocolate bar in the brush. After Tarrekaisestugan (12 km) we took a break by a stream in birch forest. Because it rained continuously, we pitched the tent for shelter during the break. Nearly two hours: muesli + fruit soup, coffee + cookies. We packed up in the rain and continued; the rain stopped, but boots and socks were again completely soaked. We continued along the familiar trail past Njunjesstugan (18 km). The weather began to clear and cool. Break + chocolate bar around 21:00. We continued walking all the way to the boat dock, arriving at 00:14. Camp set up. Dinner: Reiter Hunter’s Stew + beer sausage. 30.3 km in wet weather, unpleasant brush, clouds hiding almost all views, with wet boots and socks — but otherwise conditions were fine: few mosquitoes, no cold. Late in the evening, as the weather cleared, the twilight walk was pleasant and nothing major hindered progress. The walking portion of the trip was over: 194.2 km completed.
Boat Dock – Kvikkjokk
On Friday, August 3, 2007 we woke around 08:30. Breakfast: Reiter Pasta Bolognese + coffee + cookies. We broke camp and packed. The boat arrived at 11:00. Transfer to Kvikkjokk, then by car to Tornio for refueling, and onward to Oulu.
Hike 2007
Notes from the trip:
Sometimes it rains — and sometimes it rains a lot. We were not well prepared for this. A rain cover for the backpack would be useful. Also, the most important spare part for a backpack, the hip‑belt buckle, should be carried as a spare. Our several‑years‑old plastic buckle “fatigued” and no longer stayed closed properly.
Hiking boots do not stay waterproof in prolonged wet weather, and they cannot be dried in the field. Gore‑Tex lining in boots seems to offer little benefit — or perhaps the membrane simply does not last long. These boots had been used very little outside of hikes.
Next footwear to try: Lundhags boots with interchangeable insoles and socks, or hiking rubber boots (Tretorn Sarek, Nokia Trek Plus). In addition to rubber boots, it may be worth carrying a lightweight sneaker‑type shoe for dry conditions. A down sleeping bag is not ideal in rainy weather — it gets wet easily.
The Nallo tent is not great in wet weather either, as the foot end tends to get damp. A Kaitum would be better, but it is narrow; Keron 3 GT might be best, though heavier than the Nallo GT.
Gas lasted well — a larger canister for at least 6 days. Cooking in the tent vestibule worked fine, and a bag clip improved meal preparation significantly. With the basic daily food plan — Reiter 250 g/2, cookie 87.5 g, bar 50 g, muesli 100 g + fruit soup 75 g, bar 50 g, Reiter 250 g/2 — one can just manage the day. Sports drink powder and a small salty snack (salami, salted peanuts) are good additions.
Clothing: in shell clothing, weight and ventilation matter. A running jacket is good for hiking. Powerstretch pants are too warm in summer. Rabot pants are fine, but old‑style track pants or tights might be best. Rain pants are necessary. A T‑shirt was fairly warm; the 030 polo was too thick. It is good to carry enough clothing to adjust to conditions. It may be that we will not do week‑long trips in the future, so the current backpack volumes should suffice. Replacing the tent would be a major investment — unlikely (until next summer…).
30 km per day is doable when needed, but not desirable every day. We adopted the term “day condition”: the day’s walking distance depended on how we felt, and the condition changed during the day, allowing long distances when it felt right. Next goal: 35 km. Feelmax shoes were slightly better than Deep See neoprene shoes for fording/camp use, because the zipper made them easier to put on and they stayed on better. After the trip we also felt that “ultralight” backpacking was starting to become uncomfortable — reducing weight too much leads to compromises. The next trend will be increasing pack weight: carrying enough footwear (rubber boots, trail shoes, wading shoes), possibly two sleeping pads, and clothing for all conditions. Food and gas will not be increased. On this trip the backpack never felt heavy, so there is room to add weight.