Routes
Daily stages on map
With the summer of 2017 already behind us, it felt necessary to make one more quick visit to the fells. Time was limited, so we could not venture far from the road. In Abisko the mountains lie close to the main road. The plan developed into a three‑night trip with a short approach to a base camp, day trips from the camp, and then a return. The destination became a fairly compact group of mountains just south of Abisko, with the base camp located in the middle of the Nissonvaggi mountains. Because of the late‑autumn timing, the gear included plenty of warm clothing, double sleeping pads, and ample food supplies. The party consisted of the second member of the usual hiking duo and their spouse.
27.9.2017 Wednesday
Drive to Kolari, overnight stay.
Abisko – Nissonvaggi
On Thursday 28.9.2017 wake‑up at 07:00, breakfast, driving at 07:50, arriving at the Abisko parking area at 11:15. Sandwiches, final adjustments to backpacks, change of clothing. Pack weights 25 + 1 kg and 9.7 kg. Started walking around noon. Cloudy weather, no rain, no wind, temperature +2°C. Clothing: base layer, wind suit, hat and gloves. We followed the familiar Kungsleden trail from the 2010 hike. The route passed the Abisko canyon, over the Marmorbrottet hill, then across the Nissonjohka bridge and soon reached the junction to Tältlägret. Clouds were low and there was no visibility toward the mountains.
We continued along the trail to Tältlägret, taking a chocolate‑bar break along the way. Moving on again, the sun began to shine through the clouds ahead, and at about 720 meters in open fell terrain we rose above the cloud layer. The sun was warm, clouds lay in the valleys below, and visibility to the surrounding mountains was excellent. Lake Torneträsk and Abisko National Park remained hidden under the clouds. We followed the trail along Ballinjohka for a while. Then one part of the group continued to look into Ballinvaggi while the other part traversed the mountainside toward Nissonvaggi.
The group reunited later. By this time the day was already nearing evening, the sun had set behind the mountains, and the rocky terrain had taken its toll. When a suitable campsite appeared at just under 1000 m on the western edge of Nissonvaggi, it was time to set up the base camp. The tent was pitched on pleasantly soft, dry grass beside a small stream just before dusk. Reiter pepper beef stew was eaten. Rest began at 20:00. Contrary to expectations, the night was not cold at all — it was comfortably warm.
Day trip to Pallentjåkka
On Friday 29.9.2017 wake‑up at dawn. Clear weather, almost no wind, the sun still behind Nissoncorru, clouds lingering around 700 m in the Torneträsk valley. Reiter Pasta with beef and paprika, cocoa, coffee and biscuits. The plan was a day trip to the nearby Pallentjåkka (1737 m), though the other half of the group chose to explore lower‑lying areas. Day‑trip gear was packed into the backpacks.
The ascent to Pallentjåkka began directly from the tent site, climbing a rocky slope southwest to the ridge at 1500 m, then following the ridge to the summit. Views from the top toward Ballinvaggi and Nissonvaggi were excellent, as were the views to the surrounding mountains. One could even see all the way to Storsteinsfjellet in Norway. Continuing the day trip southwest along the ridges was considered, but the elevation differences looked too large for the available time, and the final ridge rising to the 1784 m summit was snow‑covered, which could make the ascent difficult. The previous day’s early‑season snow had already proven icy and slippery. After eating a chocolate bar on the summit, it was time to return to the tent. For variety, the descent followed a different route, first descending eastward. The weather was warm and sunny, the rocks dry, and the descent quick.
Back at camp, sandwiches were served. With renewed energy, a short 2 km walk northward was attempted to see whether the Nissonjohka canyon was visible. However, descending all the way to the canyon proved too demanding. On the return to camp it was so warm in the sun that walking without a shirt became necessary — something that had never happened on previous hikes. The weather was exceptionally warm. When the group was reunited in the tent, the evening meal consisted of cocoa, sandwiches and pastries, as the usual Reiter meal did not appeal. The night was again comfortably warm and starry.
Day trip to Nissoncorru
On Saturday 30.9.2017 wake‑up at 06:00; it was still fairly dark. By headlamp light, Reiter Pasta Carbonara was prepared, along with cocoa‑coffee and biscuits. It was time for another day trip. Of the surrounding mountains, Nissoncorru was now the target, while the other half of the group would explore closer areas. Day‑trip gear was packed. The route to Nissoncorru was longer, so extra food and water were taken. The weather was again clear, we were still above the clouds, and the sun was still behind Nissoncorru. The route first descended into Nissonvaggi, across the river to the reindeer hut.
From there the ascent to Nissoncorru began. The slope was fairly steep but manageable, with little boulder terrain. Higher up the slope eased and there were sections of solid bedrock. At around 1600 m it was already sunny with excellent views.
The ascent to the 1738 m summit of Nissoncorru went quickly. After admiring the scenery for a moment, the route continued toward the 1633 m summit on the edge of the Lapporten valley. The descent to the saddle before that summit turned out to be quite steep with loose rock. Climbing back up that slope did not appeal. The original plan had been to descend the same way as the ascent, but now an alternative route back to Nissonvaggi had to be found on the map. One was located, and the route continued to the 1633 m summit.
The lakes of the Lapporten valley were clearly visible from above. With the return to camp ahead, a chocolate bar was eaten and water drunk. Then the route followed the gently descending ridge northwest. A brisk tailwind began, making the pace almost a jog. Descending westward into the valley, the wind disappeared. After crossing a stream, the route circled the mountain on rocky slopes to Nissonsnuohkki. From there a diagonal descent into Nissonvaggi, a stone‑hopping river crossing, and a climb back to the tent. Sandwiches and coffee‑cocoa were again served. The wind was now strong even here, but thanks to it the cloud covering Torneträsk had disappeared. Once again the Reiter meal was skipped in favor of chocolate. Rocks had to be placed on the windward tent pegs to keep them in the ground. The entire night was windy but not cold.
Nissonvaggi – Abisko
On Sunday 1.10.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Pasta Carbonara, cocoa‑coffee, biscuits. Clear, cloudless weather again. Ahead was the return to the car and home. Enough food had been eaten that the backpack had become lighter, so this was compensated by filling the thermos and water bottle. These and all other gear were packed. We set off just as the sun began to shine over Nissoncorru. The wind had calmed. The route headed toward the familiar trail along Ballinjohka. The entire way was essentially downhill, so we reached the trail quickly and continued to Tältlägret, where we ate a couple of pieces of chocolate. Without further delay we continued toward Kungsleden.
Hike 2017
We noticed frost lower down; the trail was icy in places and the boardwalks covered in rime. Progress along Kungsleden was quick and soon we were at the car. The hike totaled 54.1 km with 3032 m of ascent and an equal amount of descent. After changing clothes we drove until 21:00. Notes: It is possible to hike in the fells even in late September, at least in good weather. Despite the proximity of the road, we saw only one hiker off Kungsleden on the trail toward Ballinvaggi, and on Kungsleden itself only one hiker plus some day walkers. The mountains south of Abisko are a good and easy hiking destination and worth visiting again, perhaps in early summer on skis.