Routes
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The plan was to make one more solo autumn trip to the familiar mountains of the Abisko Alps. I had at most five days available, so I might manage a few summit hikes. I also intended to test new hiking boots. I had now managed to get the pack weight under 15 kg; I left out wading shoes, the power bank, the second gas canister, spare batteries for the headlamp, and an extra shirt.
Abisko – Cuonjavaggi
Monday 9 September 2024. I left driving at 07:30, refuelled the car in Ylitornio and bought some snacks. I arrived at the Abisko Turist railway station parking area at 14:11. After changing clothes and finalising the packing, I started walking. The weather was partly cloudy, +18°C, and the wind had already rocked the car during the drive — it was still quite strong. My goal was Čuonjávággi, Lapporten, so I first headed for the Paddus Naturstig trail leading to Báddosdievvá. Autumn had already arrived in the birch forest; the leaves were yellowing and blowing in the wind. The terrain was dry and water sources were scarce until I reached a small lake/pond after about 4 km. I drank from the pond and continued. Higher up the birch forest thinned and the wind strengthened. I reached Báddosdievvá and climbed to its summit, 630 m. There were four Bulgarians on the summit and a fierce wind — my cap almost flew away. I descended along the ridge and continued on the trail towards Lapporten. At a stream I took a break and ate a chocolate bar. No suitable tent sites appeared during the ascent. I reached the beginning of Čuonjávággi; the wind blew head‑on through the valley and was strong. I took a break behind a bank, put on a wind jacket and a buff to keep the cap on my head.
There was no tent site here either, so I continued. I passed the lakes in the valley; the waves were large and the wind blew spray into the air. There were no sheltered tent spots near the lakes. Shortly after passing the second lake I reached a flat grassy area with plenty of space for a tent and a nearby stream. However, the wind was so strong that pitching the tent there was impossible. I thought for a moment and ate a chocolate bar. Then I went to look for a spot to the right, in the valley of a stream descending from the west. Soon I found a slightly more sheltered place.
I pitched the tent, anchoring the windward end with a rope and trekking poles tied to rocks. I then built a stone wall for wind protection; the wind direction shifted a bit. I fetched water from the stream and entered the tent at 21:25 — it was already quite dim. The wind shook the tent so much that I went out again to raise the stone wall. After 22:00 I prepared a Reiter dinner and then rested.
Cuonjavaggi – Čuonjáčohkka – Abisko
Tuesday 10 September 2024. During the night the wind shook the tent so much that I barely slept. In the morning one corner stake had come loose, but the other anchors held. The wind continued strong and the weather was partly cloudy. After a Reiter breakfast I decided to take a day trip to check the conditions towards Čuonjáčohkka.
I climbed the slope to the rocky terrain, where the wind was even stronger and the summit was in cloud, so I did not continue upward. Instead, I descended and walked back to the tent, arriving at 10:58. The wind had now intensified; I wondered whether I should wait here for it to calm down. Nissonvaggi, where I had planned to go next, would likely be windy as well. The weather forecast I requested via GPS predicted 100% rain for today, 80% for the next two days, and sunshine only on Friday — when I would already need to leave. Rain began and soon became heavy. I considered heading toward Váimovággi instead; Nissonvaggi was already familiar, and in this weather I probably wouldn’t attempt any summits there anyway. The wind soon provided the answer — it shook the tent so violently that I decided it was best to leave before the tent broke. Because of the strong wind and unfavourable forecast, I decided to end the trip here. At 15:38 I began packing, estimating that I could reach the forest and the trail before dark; I could walk the trail with a headlamp if needed. After packing I put on the shell clothing, then dismantled and packed the tent. I began walking with the wind at my back — the only direction that allowed stable footing; even slight crosswind caused stumbling. The wind pushed me forward and the downhill helped. In the birch forest the wind was weaker; I took a break and ate a chocolate bar after walking 11.89 km. I reached the car at 19:50 Swedish time. I refuelled in Ylitornio and arrived home at 04:20 Finnish time.
Notes: Strong wind cut the trip short, and the rainy forecast gave no motivation to continue, considering the goal of doing summit hikes. Lapporten was seen from both sides. The new hiking boots worked very well — my feet stayed dry and warm, with no blisters.