Routes
Daily stages on map
The summer hike of 2017 once again took us to Sweden. We chose a somewhat unfamiliar border region between Sweden and Norway, west of Ritsem and Lake Akkajaure. We planned a 10‑day hike starting on 26 June. The main trails in the area are the Nordkalottleden (Kalottireitti) and the Radjebalges/Gränsleden. Ferry service across Akkajaure began this year only on 28 June. According to advance information, spring had been cold and snowmelt delayed; there would still be a lot of snow in the terrain. Larger water crossings should be avoided; on marked trails the bridges would help, and higher up in the mountains snow bridges could be used. The equipment would otherwise be standard, but we would bring extra clothing to test it in real conditions.
Ritsem – South of Alepoajvve
On Monday 26.6.2017 we began driving at 04:00, stopping at Shell in Ii, refueling in Ylitornio, and again in Gällivare. A short break in Vakkotavare. We arrived in Ritsem at 11:00. A road leads from Ritsem to Sitasjaure, but it is closed by a barrier and not intended for tourist traffic. At the STF mountain station we checked whether bicycles could be rented to cycle to Sitasjaure. Two bikes were available, but we were told there was still snow on the road halfway along, so we decided to walk. We parked the car. After eating, we packed and weighed the backpacks: 19.80 kg and 22.05 kg.
Elevation 493 m, we started walking at 12:15. Cloudy weather with occasional light rain. The road climbed steeply; cycling would not have been easy. At the 8 km mark we took a chocolate‑bar break. No snow on the road. We continued along the road beside Autajauren until a junction appeared; we turned left onto a small road climbing upward, which soon ended. We took a break and ate beef jerky. The weather became less cloudy, even sunny at times. Then we left the road and continued cross‑country. The ascent up the slope of Gähtjoajvve to 900 m was fairly steep, the terrain snow‑covered, but the snow carried well. At the outflow of a small ice‑covered lake we found open water and took a break, eating a chocolate bar and jerky.
We continued on snow to a small pond below the 1083 m summit, where there was an open stream. Another chocolate‑bar break. We then continued several more kilometres along the snow‑covered ridge until at 20:30 we camped on a patch of bare ground near three lakes (judging from the map; the lakes were still under snow) south of Alepoajvve. Elevation 961 m. Distance 23.2 km, time 8 h 15 min. Reiter Pasta Carbonara + salted peanuts. Rain began. Rest at 22:30.
South of Alepoajvve – Marggojavvre
Tuesday 27.6.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Chicken Korma Curry, coffee and biscuits. Camp dismantled. Foggy, rather cold, some wind from the northwest. Walking at 09:15. The terrain was almost entirely snow‑covered; visibility was poor. First we carefully crossed a stream visible as a blue line in the snow. The next stream had some exposed rocks; it was partly under an ice roof, which broke under the weight of two hikers, but caused no real difficulty.
We climbed above Boajmasbakten and continued westward, avoiding and circling watercourses. Several streams ran in deep channels under the snow, visible as blue lines across the slope. We approached them cautiously and managed to jump across. The streambeds showed no rocks; probing with a trekking pole suggested they were deep. Soon it was time for a break behind a rock out of the wind, eating chocolate bars. Then we continued northwest; the fog grew even thicker. Approaching Jågåsjbuollda, where the name and map suggested watercourses, we tried to stay high on the slopes to avoid them. We could hear water but see nothing. After crossing several streams we took another break with chocolate and jerky, checked the GPS and map, and realized we had crossed the same stream twice. So we determined our exact position and set a new direction. We crossed the same stream a third time and then reached the main stream in the valley bottom. Finding a crossing took a moment, but eventually we located a reasonably safe snow bridge.
Now the direction was clear. We climbed quickly to the 1000 m contour and followed it along the south side of Mount Marggo. Water crossings would not be difficult up here. The fog lifted slightly and travel became easier. One more chocolate‑bar break, finishing the jerky. Marggojavvre came into view; the area ahead looked very snowy and unsuitable for camping, so we camped before the lake on a bare patch at 19:36. Elevation 905 m. Distance 22.8 km, time 10 h 21 min. Reiter Rice with Beef and Pepper Sauce + salted peanuts. Rest at 21:20.
Marggojavvre – Noaidejavri
Wednesday 28.6.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Pasta with Beef and Paprika, coffee and biscuits. Clearer weather, +1°C, some clouds, a little snowfall, but improving, light wind. Walking at 09:30. First we descended to the shore of Marggojavvre and considered whether we could walk on the lake ice, which looked solid.
However, there were cracks and blue ice near the shore, so we abandoned the idea, especially since walking on land/snow was not difficult. We crossed a couple of melt‑cut stream channels with little water. We followed Marggojåhkå at about 900 m on the slope. Before Spadnejavrre we descended slightly and took a break behind a rock, eating chocolate and jerky — 8 km walked so far. The sun was now warm. Next we headed toward the slope of Noajdetjåhkkå below Noajdeoalgge, traversing a moderately steep slope at about 830 m. Some views opened over Kåbtåjaure. Reaching Bovrojavri, we descended a bit and took another break, finishing the jerky and a chocolate bar. We reached the Nordkalottleden and crossed the outflow of Noaidejavri via a bridge. At this point camping felt appropriate, especially since we needed to consider the next day’s route. Bovrojavri was still frozen, and the rowboat crossing on the trail toward Paurohytta might not be possible. A campsite was found immediately after the bridge on a rock outcrop. Camp at 16:50. Elevation 736 m. Distance 16.6 km, time 7 h 20 min. Reiter Chicken Risotto. We considered a summit trip for the next day if the weather was good. Rest around 21:00.
Ascent of Noajdetjåhkkå and reconnaissance of the boat crossing
Thursday 29.6.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Beef, Noodles and Mushrooms, coffee and biscuits. Thin cloud, no sign of rain. So a day trip to Noajdetjåhkkå was planned. We packed day gear and left at 08:55, crossing the bridge and immediately climbing. There was a slightly gentler slope on the northwest corner of the mountain; we climbed there first, then circled around the east side to the summit. Easy terrain, mostly rock, and from 1100 m upward mostly snow. The weather improved during the ascent.
On the summit plateau at 1400 m the views eastward were still good. We climbed to the highest point, elevation 1479 m according to GPS. Sunlight with occasional snow showers; poor visibility westward due to clouds. The Gihccejiekna glacier was partly visible. The Sweden–Norway border runs across the mountain, and boundary marker Rr 251C was near the summit. We ate chocolate and jerky. We descended back to camp, drifting onto a steeper slope but without difficulty. Back at camp at 14:26, distance 8.8 km. Very sunny and hot in the tent. So at 15:50 we set out on another trip toward Paurohytta, crossing snow over the ridge to the peninsula jutting into Bovrojavri. The lake was frozen, but the strait at the tip was open and flowing strongly. No rowboats were visible on either side, so crossing was impossible; we would need another route.
We returned to camp at 18:25, distance 6.6 km. We dried footwear in the sun, rested, and washed faces and hair in the stream near the bridge. Reiter Pasta Bolognese with beef, salted peanuts, Gatorade. Rest at 21:00.
Noaidejavri – Brynvatnet shelter
Friday 30.6.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Rice with Beef and Pepper Sauce, coffee and biscuits. Sunny warm weather, no clouds, no wind. Walking at 09:30. We headed west, walking on firm snow along the north shore of Noajdejavri. All streams were still under snow until near the west end of the lake, where we found an open stream for drinking water. We then climbed westward; it became hot. The next open stream was visible higher up to the left; we climbed to it at 932 m and took a chocolate‑bar break. Then we climbed to the edge of the Gihccejiekna glacier at 1000 m. Ahead on the left was a broad rocky summit; we headed there.
Here we crossed a glacier tongue, about 500 m across. The glacier sloped gently downward, was flat, and completely snow‑covered. We judged that there were no major water channels or crevasses here. The snow had already proven strong enough to carry us. (In principle, one should not travel on a snow‑covered glacier without proper equipment and skills, since one cannot know what lies beneath.) We crossed without problems and climbed the rocky ridge to the summit, elevation 1133 m according to GPS. After the summit we took a break with chocolate and jerky. The views west, northwest and north were excellent and mountainous; the Tysfjorden fjord was visible about 1120 m below.
We then began descending toward Brynvatnet. We walked down snowfields, then traversed slopes until reaching the start of the ridge north of Brynvatnet. Another break with chocolate and jerky. We followed the ridge to the northwest end of Brynvatnet, then descended steeply to the road rising from the fjord. We continued to the Radjebalges shelter we had seen from above, arriving at 18:00, elevation 492 m. Distance 18.1 km, time 8 h 30 min.
The sun was still shining hot, and we no longer had the energy to continue walking, especially with an uphill section immediately ahead. So we stayed at the shelter for the night. We dried our shoes in the sun. The shelter had two bunks with mattresses, a table, a stove and a gas cooker. The guestbook began in 2007, the year Radjebalges was officially opened. Judging by the entries, the shelter had very few visitors each year. According to the notes, the Radjebalges bridges had been in varying states of disrepair over the years. One Norwegian appeared at the door but did not come inside. He had apparently driven up from the fjord below just to take a look around. Reiter Pasta Carbonara. Rest at 21:30.
Brynvatnet shelter – Junction of Radjebalges and the Nordkalott Trail
Saturday 1.7.2017 wake‑up at 07:00. Reiter Beef, noodles and mushrooms, coffee and biscuits. Windy, partly cloudy weather, no rain. Walking at 09:15. Now we would follow the marked Radjebalges trail. We still debated whether to continue all the way to Ritsem via this route or switch to the Nordkalott Trail. The advantages of Radjebalges were easier navigation and easier water crossings — though the condition of the bridges was uncertain. First we climbed out of the Brynvatnet valley, at times quite steeply on snow. Higher up the terrain levelled out; trail markers disappeared occasionally, but we eventually found the first bridge south of Kjerrinvatnet — a tall metal bridge in good condition. After the bridge was a shelter, which we briefly visited. The next bridge was a suspension‑type bridge sagging all the way down to the water; a sign declared it closed, and the stream could be forded at one’s own risk. We crossed it anyway. Then we continued to the next ascent, where continuous snow began. After the climb we took a chocolate‑bar break. We then skirted Dappajavrre and reached the next Radjebalges shelter at Krokvatnet. The hut was still surrounded by a metre‑deep snowbank, but we could enter and took a break, eating jerky. After the hut was a bridge still covered in snow, forming a snow bridge that allowed us to cross the stream.
We continued along the rocky, snow‑free Cehpuris ridge for quite a while until reaching the Radjebalges Röysvatn shelter — not a hut, but a lean‑to, with a wooden hut beside it containing a stove.
We continued to the next bridge, also snow‑covered, and crossed it. Then we proceeded to the Sweden–Norway border marker Rr 251. We continued a bit further until reaching the area where Radjebalges and the Nordkalott Trail intersect (in our Fjällkartan BD7 from 1998 Radjebalges is not shown, and the Nordkalott Trail is incorrectly marked). We camped at 18:00, elevation 796 m, distance 18.8 km, time 8 h 45 min.
Junction of Radjebalges and the Nordkalott Trail – Valldajåhkå crossing point
Sunday 2.7.2017 wake‑up at 06:00. Reiter Pasta Bolognese with beef, coffee and biscuits. Wind and rain during the night; cloudy but dry in the morning. Walking at 08:20. We decided to follow the Nordkalott Trail, though it was invisible under the snow — and apparently not very well marked in this area. The terrain consisted of east–west ridges with terraces on their southern sides; progress was winding because we had to search for ways down the terraces, some several metres high. We eventually reached the stream flowing into Sårgåjavrre, also called Sårgåjåhkå.
At the planned crossing point the water level and current were too strong. We had no choice but to head upstream in search of a better crossing. We had to walk all the way back into Norway before a snow bridge appeared.
Downstream from the snow bridge the river widened and shallowed, so it might have been fordable — but we used the snow bridge. We then headed toward Mount Rikkek, taking a break on the slope and eating a chocolate bar. We bypassed the summit on its east side via a terrace at 750 m. Descending toward the next watercourse, Rikkekjåhkå, the terraces again made travel difficult. At the planned crossing point the water was again too high. A little higher up the stream flowed over rock, with some remaining snow bridges. We attempted to cross and managed to get over two branches, but then progress stopped — we could not descend from a high snowbank into the fordable section. So again we headed upstream in search of a snow bridge. The stream banks were steep and difficult. No snow bridges remained. Eventually we reached the start of Coadnejavri. The map showed that going around the lake would require a long detour. The current seemed calmer here, so we decided to ford. We changed into wading shoes and rolled trousers above the knee. The deep section came immediately and was deeper than expected — water up to the crotch, strong current, very cold. The depth and cold were startling, so we hurried across; the water shallowed quickly and the crossing was completed. The next hiker crossed without trousers to avoid soaking them. Afterward we changed into shell pants, dried our feet, took a break, and ate chocolate and jerky. Then we began a new ascent along the north and east sides of the 992 m mountain. At this point we noticed low fog approaching from the northwest — a “murku”. We took a break at 860 m, eating a chocolate bar. We decided to descend to the lower Nordkalott Trail, and soon saw cairns marking it. Fog reached us, visibility dropped, but the trail was easy to follow. Rain began, wind from the northwest strengthened. We followed the trail along the east slope of Skajdevarre until reaching a junction with signs toward Vaisaluokta and Röysvatn. We turned west toward Hellemobotn, expecting a good crossing point for Valldajåhkå. We reached the mapped crossing point, but it was impassable — too much water. We searched along the river but found no crossing. The day was already far along, so we camped at 20:16, elevation 550 m, distance 28.7 km, time 11 h 56 min.
Everything was wet from rain. Reiter Rice with Beef and Pepper Sauce, salted peanuts, Gatorade. We studied the map and decided to try circling the watercourse from above the next day (swimming might have been possible, but in principle one should not swim in such conditions without proper skill). Rest after 22:00.
Valldajåhkå crossing point – Akkajaure shoreline flats
Monday 3.7.2017 wake‑up at 06:00. Reiter Pasta Carbonara, coffee and biscuits. Fog and rain continued. Walking at 09:00. We trudged westward through brush along the river. According to the map, the river would soon become a chain of lakes with narrow channels between them — typical places for snow bridges. A crossing appeared surprisingly soon, and after getting across we were in good spirits and walking more lightly. After a while we decided to walk all the way to Vaisaluokta, since the weather was so wet and unsuitable for camping. We rejoined the Nordkalott Trail. Approaching Suollagajähkå, we saw the summer bridge on land on the opposite bank. Fortunately, a fixed bridge existed here as well, so crossing was easy.
We followed the trail, which soon entered dense birch thickets, though the path was still visible. The next stream also had a bridge. A chocolate‑bar break. Then the birch forest grew taller, the ground softer, and the trail disappeared. We used the GPS to relocate it. We found the next bridge — a small wooden one, almost intact. Soon came another bridge, broken and washed downstream, stuck between rocks, covered by a snow roof that allowed us to cross. The trail was repeatedly lost and found; the terrain was brushy and uneven. Fog persisted and rain continued. The day felt gloomy, especially since I had to wear sunglasses (same prescription) because the nose pad of my regular glasses had fallen off at Brynvatnet. At least there were no mosquitoes. The next bridge was intact. The trail improved, and soon the Ravddajavrren shelter appeared. We took a break inside. It had two bunks and a table, and a county notice stating that the shelter had no heat source (meaning no stove, which was obvious). We ate chocolate and jerky. We continued on a better trail through birch forest. Then we reached the Ravddajåhkå bridge site — the summer bridge lay on land on the far bank. We assumed the fixed bridge would be nearby, and the trail continued past the summer bridge. The trail climbed high above the river and continued for over 1.5 km. We wondered why no bridge appeared. The trail eventually descended to the river — but there was no bridge. The river was wide here, and the bank was open shoreline of Akkajaure’s receded water level. Judging by the birch logs on the shore, people had once forded here. But now the water was too deep and the current too strong. A faint path continued upstream; we followed it, losing and finding it repeatedly, all the way back to the summer bridge. No other bridge existed. Our 1998 map did not mention the summer bridge; on the other hand, it was summer, and we felt the bridge should have been installed by now.
We considered our options — evening was approaching — and decided to camp at the only suitable spot we knew: the shoreline flats 1.5 km downstream. We walked back in the rain. Camp at 21:05, elevation 443 m, distance 31.7 km, time 12 h 5 min. Changed into dry clothes. Reiter Pasta with Beef and Paprika, salted peanuts, Gatorade. Studying the map, we saw that a bridge was marked further upstream in Oajevagge — also shown on the GPS map — so we could head there the next day. A snow bridge would likely exist anyway. Rest at 23:00.
Akkajaure shoreline flats – Ritsem
Tuesday 4.7.2017 wake‑up at 05:00. Reiter Chicken Risotto, coffee and biscuits. Fog and rain continued. Walking at 08:00. First we walked 1.5 km to the summer bridge site — still not installed. The river soon widened into Ravddajavrre. After passing the lake we headed through brush toward the next watercourse. Reaching the Nordkalott Trail, we found a bridge not shown on the map. Now the route was clear toward the next mapped bridge — which might or might not be in place. After several kilometres and a chocolate‑bar break, we found the bridge intact. And the next one as well. Following the tradition of the last hiking day, the weather suddenly improved and we switched to lighter clothing. We then made a final push to Vaisaluoktastugan, arriving at 13:00, elevation 461 m, distance 14 km, time 5 h. We changed into dry warm clothes and took a chocolate‑bar break on the lakeshore rocks. M/s Storlule arrived at 13:40 (Finnish time).
We boarded the boat and travelled to Ritsem; the ticket cost 300 SEK per person. In Ritsem we walked from the harbour to the STF station parking area to weigh the backpacks: 15.05 kg and 19.20 kg. The weight was increased by wet clothes and tent; the packs themselves were wet. Total hike length: 186.6 km, including 16.5 km by boat. Total ascent 6208 m, descent the same. Then the drive home, refueling again in Gällivare.
Hike 2017
Notes: According to SMHI, early July saw a minor flood peak in the streams at the west end of Akkajaure. At lower elevations the water volume caused problems — though drinking water was never scarce. The Radjebalges bridges on the Norwegian side were in poor condition; improvements may come in the future, as a 37‑turbine wind farm (Sørfjord vindkraftverk) is planned for the area. Trail markings on Radjebalges and the Nordkalott Trail were sparse; the routes seem little used. The Nordkalott Trail section along the shore of Akkajaure is not worth hiking — too brushy, with little scenery. Better to take the Hellemobotn–Vaisaluokta route further south in open mountain terrain. Due to the time of year and snowy conditions, we met no other hikers — and no mosquitoes. As hiking experience grows, the GPS screen feels too small. All tested clothing worked well, except the wind‑protection base layer was too cool and ultimately unnecessary. Merino base layers were good for sleeping; the Shield suit was light and useful in some situations; a thin shirt was needed. Two hats and two pairs of gloves can be useful. Shell mittens failed immediately and must be replaced.