Routes
Daily stages on map
The hiking area chosen for this year was the Käsivarsi Wilderness Area, specifically the so‑called Upper Fells. The main goal was Halti, that distant highest point of Finland, which we had already attempted to reach in 2001. Possibly we could visit some other locations as well. We had a maximum of 5 days for the hike. The area is crossed by the Nordkalott Trail, already partly familiar from our 2001 hike. Our tent was the lightweight Nallo 3 GT, and we had reduced the amount of food compared to earlier trips and left the mini‑skis at home.
29.06.2012 Friday: left home at 15:00, refueled in Tornio, visited the store, arrived in Kolari at 19:30, dinner, coffee, went to sleep at 22:00.
Parking Area – Kahperusjoki
On Saturday 30.6.2012 wake‑up at 02:30, coffee, on the move at 02:54, arrived at Kilpisjärvi Nature Centre parking area at 05:54 (273 km). Meal (pasta + meatballs), changed clothing, weighed backpacks: 16.4 kg and 14 kg (1 liter of water included). Started walking at 06:50. Wind from the east, moderate; light rain; low clouds; wearing shell clothing.
Birch trees already had leaves, no mosquitoes. Ascent on a rocky trail, along the shore of Lake Tsahkaljärvi to the bridge, drinking break. From there we continued along the trail toward Lake Termisjärvi for a while, trying to bypass the upper‑slope marshes, then climbed onto Masetvarri at about 800 meters. Higher up the wind was stronger, rain heavier, and visibility nearly nonexistent. Following an ATV track we walked east until descending into the valley between Masetvarri and Muurivaara, where we had a drinking break. We climbed to the top of Muurivaara and photographed the border marker; nothing else was visible. We descended east into Muvravaggi and passed Lake 708.0 on its north side. After climbing a bit we took a break sheltered from the wind and ate chocolate bars. Then we climbed to the top of Salmivaara; visibility was again nonexistent. We aimed eastward and wandered for a while on the flat tops of the Salmivaaras before finding the correct direction. The same searching for direction in the fog continued for some time; the terrain was featureless and offered no help for navigation, and visibility was zero. The intention had been to admire the views over Lake Termisjärvi from the high ridge of Salmivaara and to inspect Salmikuru at the same time. With visibility still nonexistent, it became clear that this plan could not be realized in the prevailing weather. There were no signs of improvement, so we headed north. We descended the rocky slope near the southeastern end of Lake Salmijärvi. After crossing a reindeer fence we had a chocolate‑bar break and continued north. Lake 775.8 (Kohpejavri/Jagonajavri) was circled on the east side. Foggy weather continued.
Our goal now was to reach the Nordkalott Trail, since there were no views anyway; it would be easier to walk along the marked route without worrying about navigation. In fog and rain we walked northwest along the slope of Guonjarvarri, gradually ascending, with a chocolate‑bar break in between. On the plateau of Guonjarvarri we reached the Nordkalott Trail and followed it into Guonjarvaggi. We had to search a bit for a suitable stream crossing; the water level was high. On the steps of Kuonjarjoki hut we took a break and ate salami. We continued along the trail for about 3 km, and after crossing a larger stream we camped near the stream at 18:57. Walking distance 35.19 km. Freeze‑dried meal. Rain stopped in the evening, fog thinned slightly. Slept at 21:00.
Kahperusjoki – Saivaara – Govdavaggi
Sunday 1.7.2012 wake‑up at 06:00, condensation in the tent, foggy outside, +7°C. Freeze‑dried meal, instant coffee, biscuits. On the move at 08:35, no visibility, no rain, hardly any wind. Approaching Meekonlaakso it cleared slightly and Saivaara became visible. Meekonlaakso also looked clearer. We decided to make a side trip to Saivaara and left the trail at a suitable point, leaving our backpacks behind. We climbed Saivaara from the east side along a path. We admired the scenery and took photos. We were back at the backpacks at 12:15, and by then the sun was shining. We ate chocolate bars and drank sports drink. Shell clothing was replaced with fleece. Soon we reached the Nordkalott Trail again and crossed Bierfejohka via the bridge.
We continued along the trail through birch forest and rocky terrain, with some mosquitoes. After leaving the birch forest we followed the Vuomakasjoki river to the bridge. At the bridge we took a break and ate chocolate bars and salami. Continuing onward, we passed the Pitsusköngäs waterfall and photographed it.
We walked along the shores of Lake Pitsusjärvi to the Pitsusjärvi wilderness hut. As we arrived, a rain shower began, so we sat on the porch under shelter for a while, changed back into shell clothing, and ate a chocolate bar and salami. We continued for another couple of kilometers; the rain stopped and the sun came out again, and Halti was already visible. After climbing some distance into Govdavaggi we figured there would be no good tent spots higher up, so we camped at 18:00. Walking distance 25.67 km. The sun shone for about 15 minutes—just enough to dry the sleeping bag and socks a bit—then rain forced us into the tent. Freeze‑dried meal, salted peanuts. Slept at 20:00.
Govdavaggi – Halti – Near Kahperusvarri
Monday 2.7.2012 wake‑up at 03:00, got dressed. Packed necessary items into jacket pockets and headed toward Halti without breakfast or backpacks, on the move at 03:40. Fog, visibility about 20 meters. Following the path and trail markers forward, patches of snow and water under the snow at times, then more snow in the streambed coming from Ruksesvaggi, firm enough to walk on. Stream crossing on snow from the upper‑slope side. Break: chocolate bar and salami. Continuing along trail markers and footprints left by earlier hikers in the snow, we reached the Halti border cairn at 06:50; rain and wind at the top, cold.
Photos, then we returned the same way, back at the tent at 09:00, walking distance 14.5 km. Rain and fog the entire time. Freeze‑dried meal, rest, instant coffee, biscuits, on the move again at 14:30. Break on the steps of Pitsusjärvi hut; weather clearing slightly, shell jackets off.
After the hut we had to search for a suitable stream crossing. Continuing along the trail, after a couple of kilometers the shell jackets went back on as rain returned. Break before the Vuomakasjoki bridge, chocolate bar. At Meekon reservation hut we stood around for a while; rain stopped. Along the trail to the Bierfejohka bridge, and then another kilometer uphill until we camped on a small ridge near a stream valley at 19:50. Walking distance 15.87 km. Freeze‑dried meal, salami. Cold wind from the northwest; wind increased during the night, some shivering.
Near Kahperusvarri – Parking Area
Tuesday 3.7.2012 wake‑up at 05:00, rain and wind. Freeze‑dried meal, instant coffee, biscuits; rain stopped; on the move at 07:25. Along the Nordkalott Trail, cold wind from the northwest. Clouds fairly high, some visibility. Stream crossings slightly more difficult than on the way in, more water in the streams. Passed Kuonjarjoki hut, chocolate‑bar break after climbing Guonjarvarri, sheltered behind a rock. Down the trail toward Saarijärvi hut, break just before the hut: chocolate bar, salami.
The weather warmed, wind decreased slightly, sun began to shine near Lake Maseh. Continuing past Lake Tsahkaljärvi to the Nature Centre parking area, where we arrived at 16:13, walking distance 28.7 km.
Notes: Summer was somewhat late in Käsivarsi this year, and there was still plenty of snow and water in the terrain. Weather conditions, as often on our earlier trips in this region, were very cloudy and foggy. Because of this we mostly followed the Nordkalott Trail, which allowed stream crossings without major difficulties and avoided the need for wading. Clothing consisted again of shell gear, stretch fleece, and a base layer; the base layer was not used this time due to the lack of warm weather. The tent, as usual, accumulated condensation. The 350 g gas canister ran out on the morning of the fourth hiking day; it had boiled about eight 1‑liter pots of water in the tent vestibule without a windscreen using a Pocket Rocket stove. The daily basic food ration per person consisted of 2 × 250 g freeze‑dried meals, 87.5 g biscuits, 2 × 50 g salami, and 3 × 50 g chocolate/energy bars. Additionally, one mug of instant coffee with sugar and milk powder, and as needed salted peanuts (0–50 g) and sports drink (0.5–1 liter). Water was readily available. For the first time on a trip like this, we actually ate everything in the daily ration; sometimes we were even hungry. For a short trip this works, but for a longer one more food would be needed. Total distance: 119.93 km (GPS trip meter), track log showing 111.6 km (50‑meter point interval).