Routes
Daily stages on map
A short visit to the fells still felt necessary in the autumn. Time would of course be limited. When choosing a destination, Ounastunturi and the Halti region were initially in the plans. Travelling abroad was beginning to seem possible again, so I added the Pältsa area to my considerations. Whether I would go via Norway and Signaldalen or some other way was still unclear when I set off. Eventually the route plan clarified while driving north: I would take the boat across Kilpisjärvi and continue on foot toward Pältsa. Tuesday 14 September 2021. In Oulu it had been sleeting/snowing all day.
I put winter tyres on the car just in case. I started driving at 17:11; there was snow all the way to Tornio. In Kolari it was +5°C; I refuelled and stayed overnight.
Kilpisjärvi – Pältsanvaggi
On Wednesday 15 September 2021 I woke at 05:30, dressed, ate, packed my things, and started driving at 05:51. It was still dim, fairly clear, cloudy but dry. I arrived in Kilpisjärvi a little before 09:00. The shop opened at 09:00; I withdrew 40 euros and bought two chocolate bars. Then I drove to the boat harbour and parked the car. I changed into hiking gear — fleece trousers, wind jacket, beanie, neck gaiter and gloves — hoisted the backpack onto my back and walked 10 metres to join the queue for the boat. Despite the early hour, many people were already waiting, mostly heading to the Three-Country Cairn. I boarded, paid 40 euros for a return ticket. The boat departed around 10:00. The national border passed unnoticed, and soon I stepped ashore on Swedish soil at Golddaluokta. I adjusted my boot laces and attached the camera and mug to the backpack’s chest strap. A couple of other hikers were also heading toward Pältsa; we exchanged a few words. Around 11:00 I went through the reindeer fence gate and began the walking portion of the trip. I followed a good trail and the winter-route markers through birch forest glowing with autumn colours. A stream flowed beside the path; I drank from it. There was also a turf hut in the forest — I peeked inside; it seemed in good condition and could serve as shelter if needed. After a couple of steeper slopes I reached the treeline; the trail was easy and the winter-route markers gave direction as I continued toward the Tuipali plateau. I had left two shirts on under my jacket, but soon removed one — it was warm enough with just one. The weather was dry and cloudy. The snowline was around 800 metres; above that a thin layer of snow covered the ground. After the ascent the terrain levelled out and I kept a fairly brisk pace. The route descended to the Lahkunjoaske lakes, followed by a significant climb. From the ridge I could already see a bit of the Pältsa massif. The descent toward Lake Ruovddasvagge was long and gentle; I ate a chocolate bar while walking downhill. From the next ridge Pältsa was clearly visible. The weather here was clearer and even sunny. I took photos while descending the path.
A ptarmigan stood beside the path; I tried to photograph it as well. Finally there was a steeper descent into birch forest, until I reached Pältsastugan. I photographed the huts and continued to the bridge over Pältsanjohka. I photographed the bridge too, then crossed it and continued toward Pältsanvaggi. I tried to avoid the worst brush by skirting slightly left along the upper slope. After about three kilometres of trudging it was time to look for a tent site. Since I planned to make day trips from the camp, I decided to pitch the tent in a visible location so I could spot it when returning. I found a flat gravel ridge top and set up the tent; fortunately the wind did not interfere. At home I had repaired the tent pole that had broken twice on the previous trip using a hacksaw and an 8 mm aluminium tube from a hardware store — the pole now worked as it should. I reached the tent at 16:45.
Trip to Mount Pältsa
The weather was fairly sunny and calm — a window of good weather not to be wasted — so I emptied the backpack, packed day‑trip gear, and at 16:59 set off toward Mount Pältsa. I had not yet visited the sharper 1401 m summit. According to advance information (Lapin Kansa 14.09.2021), the sun would set around 20:00. I wondered whether I would make it back before dark; I carried a headlamp just in case. I also saved the tent’s location in a map app on my phone. At the first stream I ate a caffeine‑cola energy gel and drank water. I had brought water bottles but planned to fill them only on the return to keep the pack light; I would need water at camp for cooking. I continued snacking while walking, eating a chocolate bar. I crossed Pältsanjohka on stones; the water was high and the stones very slippery, as glacier streams often are. The Pältsa valley was easy to walk — grassy terrain and a gentle upward slope allowed a good pace. I reached the ravine descending between the Pältsa summits at 17:54 and began climbing the steep slope. I checked the time on my phone and thought I might need to turn back by 18:30. The slope was steep; I felt my legs tiring and even had muscle cramps in my shins. I also realised there was no water available up here — I should have filled the bottles at the stream below.
I reached the saddle between the flat and sharp Pältsa summits at 18:36. I hesitated — continue or turn back? The sun still seemed fairly high; I reasoned that days are longer here in the north, and Sweden is one hour behind Finland, so perhaps I could reach the top and return before dark. I had already crossed the snowline, so I scooped a mugful of snow and ate it while climbing. The slope was moderately steep and rocky but walkable; the snow slowed me slightly. Several times I considered turning back, but continued anyway. Then the slope eased and soon I was on the summit — time 19:04. I admired the views and took photos.
Then I began descending; the slope proved runnable, and I was back in the saddle at 19:24. I continued half‑running; now my thigh muscles were cramping too, so I increased my snow consumption, grabbing large chunks of frozen crust and crunching them while bounding downhill. I reached the valley floor at 19:48. The terrain became easy again. The sun had set behind the fells, but there was still enough light to walk. I descended gently to Pältsanjohka and drank three mugfuls of water. I tried to cross on stones, but my foot slipped on a slick rock and I had to step into the riverbed; with three leaps I reached the bank. My fleece trousers got wet, and some water entered my boots. I filled the water bottles and continued to the tent. I arrived at 20:36.
The temperature dropped after sunset, and frost had already formed on the tent when I arrived. Inside, I spread out the sleeping pads and changed into merino base layers, wool socks, fleece sweater, insulated vest, wool neck warmer and thick beanie. I took out the sleeping bags. I tossed the wet clothes into a corner and put the boots in a plastic bag to prevent further condensation. I prepared a Reiter meal; while waiting I chewed beef jerky. After the meal I drank coffee‑cocoa, ate bread with cheese and salami, and a bun. Outside it was –4°C, the sky was full of stars, and there was no wind. With two sleeping bags and two pads I stayed warm. The only problem was muscle cramps — shins, calves, quads, hamstrings — rotating endlessly. I couldn’t sleep, so I watched the stars through the tent door, drank fluids, and ate salty salami, beef jerky, cheese and chocolate. The hiking day had been demanding. I had likely drunk too little and certainly eaten too little. The plan for the next day was to recover and dry clothing. Eventually the cramps eased and I slept.
Mosgángáisi and Juoksavatnjunni
In the morning it was already light. Condensation covered the tent ceiling and the outer sleeping bag. The wet clothes were still wet. I fetched water from the stream and prepared a Reiter meal for breakfast, followed by coffee‑cocoa, bread with cheese and salami, and a bun. Clouds were low; no views. There was no hurry to go anywhere. Then the wind picked up, the cloud layer began to break, and sunlight appeared on the slope of Juoksavatnjunni. I thought a short walk might be possible. I put on the wet base layer and wet socks, with shell trousers and jacket over them. I figured that climbing uphill would generate enough heat and ventilation to dry the clothes. With day‑trip gear in the pack I set off around 11:00, climbing westward. Soon I warmed up. Reaching the base of the steep slope, I traversed left and reached the mouth of the ravine descending from Juoksavatnjunni. From there I climbed right to the ridge. Higher up, snow covered the rocks and the sun shone above the clouds. A brisk southwesterly wind blew, and the clouds remained behind the fells ahead. There were views toward the Pältsa summits and down into Pältsanvaggi.
I followed the broad ridge to the 1491 m summit, with good views toward Norway and down to the 893 m lake valley. I also looked toward the ridge continuing to Moskkugaisi and considered going there, but decided to leave it for another time — the entire route would require trudging through snow, and the scenery would be the same as what I could already see. Instead I chose to climb the 1446 m summit of Juoksavatnjunni, reached by a narrow ridge that might be interesting to traverse. The ridge first descended quite a bit; there was a steep drop to the right and a gentler slope to the left. As I descended I entered cloud and lost the views. The ridge was easy to follow all the way to the 1446 m summit, where there was a border marker. Behind it, sheltered from the wind, I consumed a caffeine gel and drank water, then returned to the ridge and ate a chocolate bar while walking. I continued to the lowest point of the ridge and then descended a snowy slope into the ravine that drops eastward from Juoksavatnjunni. I assumed the snow in the ravine would make the descent easier — and it did. At the lower end the snow ended and the ravine stream appeared. I filled my water bottles and continued toward the tent, descending into Pältsanvaggi, where the sun was shining.
I reached the tent at 15:30. I spread the sleeping bags, boots and clothes outside in the sun and wind to dry; I dried my socks by stretching my legs into the sunlight. The base layer had already dried during the day trip. The outside temperature was +4°C. I studied the map and ate chocolate. After the sun set behind the fells I brought everything back into the tent and prepared a Reiter meal for supper, along with coffee‑cocoa, bread with cheese and salami, and a bun. The plan for the next day was to begin heading toward the boat harbour so that getting home would not be too tight. Mare’s‑tail clouds had appeared, and thin haze was approaching from the northwest — the weather might worsen in the coming days. During the night the temperature dropped to –2°C; stars were visible and there was some wind.
Pältsanvaggi – Kilpisjärvi
I woke at 05:00; it was still fairly dim. By headlamp I prepared a Reiter meal for breakfast, drank coffee‑cocoa, and ate bread with cheese and salami and a bun. It was cold; I didn’t want to leave the sleeping bag immediately, so I rested after eating and packed some items while still half inside the bag. Eventually I had to pack the sleeping bags as well. I put on the wet fleece trousers and wind jacket, and over them shell clothing for taking down the tent. The tent was frosted, but I managed to pack it; finally I stuffed the shell clothing into the pack and tied my bootlaces. At 08:38 I began walking; the sun shone faintly ahead, and a cloud rested on the Tuipali plateau. I repeatedly stopped to photograph the fells glowing in the morning light.
I reached the Pältsa hut at 09:56; it was empty. I continued toward the ascent leading to the Tuipali plateau. The weather was cloudier here; the familiar trail made progress easy, and I arrived in Golddaluokta at 13:17. No one else was there. I went into the day hut and changed my sweat‑soaked clothes into dry ones. Then I waited to see whether a boat would still come from Kilpisjärvi that day. At 15:03 I saw the boat on the water, approaching.
When the boat arrived, I boarded. There were no other passengers; the crew told me that two Swiss hikers were coming and we would wait for them. While waiting I talked with the captain — we found many familiar landmarks and topics to discuss. Soon the Swiss hikers arrived and the boat departed for Kilpisjärvi. Upon reaching the shore at 16:45 I walked to the car, changed some clothing, and drove to Kolari for the night. Notes: A lighter tent would suffice for one person. Otherwise the gear and food were appropriate. I must return to the Pältsa valley again — it is a pleasant area.